Next year? Tom's 50th class reunion will be in Waterloo, Iowa in September. We want to go across the South to visit friends in San Antonio, visit the WW II museum in New Orleans and the Naval Aviation Museum at Pensacola, FL. We'd like to visit friends in Arkansas and Illinois so I'll be looking at a long loop around before heading back to Tucson.
We want to visit the southeast and the northeast (especially in the Fall) and we need to find places where we can use our time-share points instead of losing them.
We want to go back to England, Scotland, and Ireland and also want to take a Baltic sea cruise to visit Scandinavia, Berlin, and St. Petersburg.
Tuesday, June 24, 2014
Recap of The Best of Italy Tour
We're glad we saw this country on a tour instead of driving. Few street or highway signs were in English, and many people spoke very little English.
We visited Assisi and Orvieto, two small areas that we probably wouldn't have included in an itinerary we arranged.
The tour company arranged all the bus trips, funiculars, boats, mini-buses, etc. We were at the head of the line at the Vatican, got right into the Academy of Arts to see the statue of David, Tower of Pisa, etc.
11 days- 1252 miles on the bus, plus 424 miles round-trip to Maratea and back to Rome on the train
Traversed 6,109 stairs (Tom 6,409)!!!!! I may have missed a few, if, by chance, I was talking to someone. Ha! Or listening intently to a guide.
We visited Rome, Florence, Orvieto, Montecatini, Assisi, Venice, Pisa, Positano, Pompeii, Isle of Capri, Sorrento.
It was a fantastic trip and we recommended it to friends several times in the first few days we were home.
We visited Assisi and Orvieto, two small areas that we probably wouldn't have included in an itinerary we arranged.
The tour company arranged all the bus trips, funiculars, boats, mini-buses, etc. We were at the head of the line at the Vatican, got right into the Academy of Arts to see the statue of David, Tower of Pisa, etc.
11 days- 1252 miles on the bus, plus 424 miles round-trip to Maratea and back to Rome on the train
Traversed 6,109 stairs (Tom 6,409)!!!!! I may have missed a few, if, by chance, I was talking to someone. Ha! Or listening intently to a guide.
We visited Rome, Florence, Orvieto, Montecatini, Assisi, Venice, Pisa, Positano, Pompeii, Isle of Capri, Sorrento.
It was a fantastic trip and we recommended it to friends several times in the first few days we were home.
Wednesday, June 18th-headed to airport and home-long day ahead
6/18: Headed home.
Up at 4:00 with a headache. Raining. Bags in hall at 5:15 and taxi at 5:30.
Hotel gave us some breakfast items since the buffet isn't open yet. At the airport bought some Americano coffee (not like Folgers!). Everyone around us is eating subs. Typical in much of Europe. Many Italians only have coffee and croissants, we have been told many times.
Walked to the train to go to another area. A young woman was looking around frantically and then ran up to me, asking if I was flying to Istanbul, Turkey. I said no and she started to run to the escalator and I said, here, let us help you. She needed to get on the same train as us and go to G-8, where ours was G-1. Her boarding pass said they had started to board 25 minutes earlier, so I thought oh, no, she'll probably miss the plane. When we got off I pointed to the G gates and told her to run fast. About five minutes later that gate employee was paging one last passenger, so it was either her or someone else, and she made it. We hoped so.
We showed our passports three times before getting on the plane. We had some crackers with us, so bought a small package of salami and green olives. 11 days of running around and never had any olives that grow everywhere here.
We'll fly three hours-over Genoa, Paris, and into London.
A 14 year-old boy from San Francisco sat by me. He and his grandma (chaperone) had just completed a one week educational tour to London, Florence, Paris and Rome, Had never been anywhere but San Diego. I thought he might have been of Italian descent and he said yes, and Portuguese. His parents have never traveled to Europe. His step-dad designs war tanks.
They served us breakfast at 8:45-ham and cheese sandwiches. But I've been up 5 hours, so it felt ok.
Landed in London, walked to an area where a bus will take us to another terminal after one security guy asked us several questions. At that gate went through security again. We get so tired of the people who don't read the explicit signs and aren't ready, with jackets and watches off, shoes, etc., to go through the lines and hold everyone else up. People ahead of us acted like they had all day and were the only ones there. Walk to the gate and show passport, walk about 8 feet inside and have to show it again!
4,820 miles from here to Dallas-9-1/2 hours. We have 3 seats for the 2 of us-wonderful! Fussy 18 month old and 3 yr old. Duh, bring something for them to play with, or a stuffed animal or doll for the baby, at least. Tom suggests tranquilizers and stuff 'em in the overhead! My ankles are very swollen again. The stewardesses gave me bags of ice to hold on them and lots of bottles of water.
Dallas-showed our passports 3 times, got bags, went through customs, re-checked bags. Escalators, train to the domestic terminal. Gulped down a burger and realized we had more time than we thought. Then a thunderstorm hit and we had a one hour delay-so spent almost 4 hours there.
Maury and Susan picked us up. Home at 10:15. Bed at 10:30 with ice packs and elevated feet. Awake 30 hours!
Tom was wide awake 4 hours later and me 5-1/2 hours. Unpacked, threw everything in the wash. A pot of good coffee! (The next night I only slept 2-1/2 hrs and did 5 loads of wash between 11:30 and 3.)
Up at 4:00 with a headache. Raining. Bags in hall at 5:15 and taxi at 5:30.
Hotel gave us some breakfast items since the buffet isn't open yet. At the airport bought some Americano coffee (not like Folgers!). Everyone around us is eating subs. Typical in much of Europe. Many Italians only have coffee and croissants, we have been told many times.
Walked to the train to go to another area. A young woman was looking around frantically and then ran up to me, asking if I was flying to Istanbul, Turkey. I said no and she started to run to the escalator and I said, here, let us help you. She needed to get on the same train as us and go to G-8, where ours was G-1. Her boarding pass said they had started to board 25 minutes earlier, so I thought oh, no, she'll probably miss the plane. When we got off I pointed to the G gates and told her to run fast. About five minutes later that gate employee was paging one last passenger, so it was either her or someone else, and she made it. We hoped so.
We showed our passports three times before getting on the plane. We had some crackers with us, so bought a small package of salami and green olives. 11 days of running around and never had any olives that grow everywhere here.
We'll fly three hours-over Genoa, Paris, and into London.
A 14 year-old boy from San Francisco sat by me. He and his grandma (chaperone) had just completed a one week educational tour to London, Florence, Paris and Rome, Had never been anywhere but San Diego. I thought he might have been of Italian descent and he said yes, and Portuguese. His parents have never traveled to Europe. His step-dad designs war tanks.
They served us breakfast at 8:45-ham and cheese sandwiches. But I've been up 5 hours, so it felt ok.
Landed in London, walked to an area where a bus will take us to another terminal after one security guy asked us several questions. At that gate went through security again. We get so tired of the people who don't read the explicit signs and aren't ready, with jackets and watches off, shoes, etc., to go through the lines and hold everyone else up. People ahead of us acted like they had all day and were the only ones there. Walk to the gate and show passport, walk about 8 feet inside and have to show it again!
4,820 miles from here to Dallas-9-1/2 hours. We have 3 seats for the 2 of us-wonderful! Fussy 18 month old and 3 yr old. Duh, bring something for them to play with, or a stuffed animal or doll for the baby, at least. Tom suggests tranquilizers and stuff 'em in the overhead! My ankles are very swollen again. The stewardesses gave me bags of ice to hold on them and lots of bottles of water.
Dallas-showed our passports 3 times, got bags, went through customs, re-checked bags. Escalators, train to the domestic terminal. Gulped down a burger and realized we had more time than we thought. Then a thunderstorm hit and we had a one hour delay-so spent almost 4 hours there.
Maury and Susan picked us up. Home at 10:15. Bed at 10:30 with ice packs and elevated feet. Awake 30 hours!
Tom was wide awake 4 hours later and me 5-1/2 hours. Unpacked, threw everything in the wash. A pot of good coffee! (The next night I only slept 2-1/2 hrs and did 5 loads of wash between 11:30 and 3.)
Tuesday, June 17th - our last full day in Italy
6/17: Last full day of the tour. 90's, not as humid as many days have been.
Isle of Capri to Sorrento, to Positano on the Amalfi Coast, back to Rome.
6:45 At breakfast in the pretty dining room in our LaPalma Hotel. The ceiling has sheer white fabric from all corners to the center. There is a tall "tree" made of flower pots.
Some in our group stayed up until 2 a.m. watching the World Cup. Are they ever dragging this morning! Had to have suitcases in the hall at 6:15, I think. Here is a shot of Tom standing next to a couple of the miniature vans they use to haul stuff from the ferries to the shops and hotels.
Walked several blocks to the funicular to ride down to the port to board the ferry to Sorrento (we had come here from Naples.) This ride wasn't as choppy as that had been and our island boat tour. But it still wasn't smooth on the 35 minute ride.
Walked off the ferry with 2 women pulling zippered bags. I asked them if they were going shopping and they said yes, everything is so much cheaper than on Capri. I asked what they would probably buy and they said "everything." Later we saw a lot of nice produce stands, so am sure they probably have their favorite one.
Igor pointed out the Excelsior Vittoria Hotel on the hill above the port-150'. It is the most expensive hotel in Italy. (yellowish building)
Sorrento has 16,000 residents. It is a very popular place for tourists, too, because of its easy access to several other places.
We boarded 2 mini buses to reach our tour starting place. Ours was short a seat for Igor. He said "I know all these places by heart, so I could even lay on the floor." But he stood.
When he talked to this driver it was mainly in Neapolitan-the local dialect-with occasional Italian thrown in. Many of the drivers in these places know him from prior trips. (Many of the places we visited do not allow the full-sized buses in the towns. So our driver, Piero, would have to take it to a bus lot and wait for us-sometimes for two days. One time I asked him if he missed us, and he said "Yes, but I cleaned the bus very much - it is like new for all of you.") The first day Igor told us Piero treated the bus as if it was his own and no one was to bring pizza, chocolate, or gelato aboard!
35,000 years ago a volcano erupted in this area.
There is a cool breeze where we're standing in an alleyway. Igor said for many years there were pasta and wool factories that had started in the 1600's. It was so humid up above where they were, that the pollution was terrible and they closed them. Later this area we're in was built to come down to the harbor.
We saw tall Mediterranean palms and, shortly, we walked into the courtyard of St. Francis Church and the chiastro (garden area) built in the 1400's. Concerts are held here now.
Down the block is a banana tree-not typical in Italy. Gardenia bushes. We looked down to the sea and across to Naples and Mt. Vesuvius and the port of Sorrento.
Surrentum was the name of a siren (mermaid-woman legend), who lived in the bay.
This area is famous for cotton and linen.
Next we walked to an ancient area where we saw the Cathedral of Sorrento with its red bell tower from the 11th c. The church was built on top of a church that had been dedicated to Minerva.
The pillars in the front are from the original Roman temple.
Walked next to medieval buildings on narrow north-south and east-west streets. Igor told us the city was laid out that way so the residents could see clear to the ends of the streets to see if invaders were coming.
There was a small raised area with metal walls and a pretty fresco. He said people play cards here in the evenings.
The cathedral was remodeled with new Baroque decorations in 1920's.
We visited an inlaid wood factory that had beautiful items. One of the sons (40's, probably) explained that the business had been run by his family since 1852 and explained that they select a drawing and place it on top of several thin layers of wood veneers. Then they use a scroll saw that is about 5' x 12' so it flips around the wood.
For someone to become one of these artists, he first has to be gifted, then go through a 5 year training period. They apply 6 coats of polyurethane on matte or other finish. He put a lighter against a finished piece and it didn't burn. He said these pieces are to be used-with food, drinks, etc., if they are lazy Susans, coasters, etc.
He showed us a table his dad invented in the 1950's that is now world famous-with several game boards and a whole chess set stored in it.
We bought a coaster depicting Sorrento. This man has a place in Miami-said Italians love Miami. He said his family works very hard during the tourist season and then goes to America.
It was interesting to talk to two people in our group about things they learned in this shop today. One man said he knew his mom had bought a wood inlaid table in Italy, but had no idea what it is worth-they are selling things that were hers. He saw one similar to hers and talked to someone in this family who said he could probably appraise it if he receives a picture. So our new friend said that table is going to his home, not anyone else's. A lady said she was offered a music box from someone in her husband's family, but passed it up. Saw a similar one and now wishes she had kept it-they were very expensive. We talked about how we all need to have lists, or label items that are unusual, expensive, etc., because family members probably won't know their sentimental or cash value after we're gone.
We've seen 4 bikes this morning-the first ones I've seen in any of these towns. Sure not like in all the European cities we visited last summer, where there were thousands. As we walked towards our tour bus there was a neat gully full of vegetation. Igor said the brick structure in it was one of the old mills for a pasta factory.
We boarded the mini bus and the driver asked us if we'd ever visited the Amalfi Coast. Everyone answered "No." He said "me, neither. This is my first day as a driver." Then smiled, knowing we all know it will be a high, narrow, curving road above the ocean. Later he maneuvered a very tight curve and one of the gals on the bus said "not bad for your first day on the job!"
I noticed a beautiful purple jacaranda tree in the park as we drove by. Real estate offices are called immobiliers here in Italy, as in other countries over here.
We rode down narrow, busy streets on the coast, full of shops. One is called the Lavenderia. Small trucks parked along the road, from which people are selling their produce. Igor tells us it is organic and many of the locals have started buying cheaper produce from neighboring countries, etc., so the farmers sell to all the tourists who travel this road. The stuff looks good from the bus!
We saw a Coke delivery truck that was smaller than a Tahoe. Pedestrians walking along the side of the streets that are already narrow, with two vehicles side by side. No thanks. Motorcycles rushing between vehicles.
It's very overcast, but not raining. Of course all the photographers would prefer a sunny day. We're high above the ocean now.
All kinds of cars are parked along the road, with part of their vehicle sticking out. The first two must have been the occupants of houses that were up one side and down the other side of the hillsides and evidently don't have driveways.
Our two mini buses stop on the road, taking up most of the right lane. Very common and accepted. Cars behind us slowed down, and went around the buses when it was safe. I could see major road rage in America if that happened. We've pulled over in one of two places where we'll see a beautiful view. Five boats are leaving pretty wakes below.
Next, we passed a large indentation in the hillside that was like a cave. It contained a Madonna statue and candles. Igor says there are several along this road, meant to protect drivers and the sailors below.
Next stop is so we can see the city of Positano from above. Wow! Pretty houses and other buildings built all up the hillside. Most are white, but a few are painted pastel colors. Several have beautiful bougainvillea plants growing on them.
Igor goes between both buses, counting to be sure all 44 people are on board. I told him it'd be easier on our large bus if he just looked for an empty seat, since we have a full vehicle. He laughed and then told all of us that on one of the first tours he conducted 19 years ago, the bus was pulling out of the parking area and a woman started pounding on the outside and yelling to let her in. He said every time since then he actually counts the people. One couple has dubbed him Count Igor.
We have to stop at the top of the hill above town to wait for another mini bus that is coming up the narrow road.
Guide shows us a parking lot where the cars are literally about 6" apart. No way could a driver get out of his side. But how could he get out the right side if someone is parked there? Parking is so expensive, because of the shortage of spaces.
Positano is known for fashion and sandals, which can be made for you in 20 minutes. The sole is ready and a buyer chooses the straps they want.
Walked down, down stairs and streets to the beach. Shared a sandwich.
Two little girls had a blanket with plastic bracelets for sale-like the ones the young American girls are making. Bought 2 for our great nieces who like to make them.
Really looks like rain and we have to walk back up to the bus. But, it didn't start before we left.
Back on the bus, with Igor giving us more information. The Amalfis were a people who had a maritime kingdom like the people of Genoa, Pisa, and Venice. They sailed to other lands from here.
In the 1960's Sophia Loren was made an honorary citizen of Positano. Soon other move stars began travelling there, as did the Kennedys. Soon the area took off as a tourist area. Fishing is a minor part of the economy now.
John Steinbeck wrote Positano, about the Amalfi Coast.
A lot of produce and hazelnuts grow here. The Latari Mountains are on our right-sheer rock cliffs. There is a park on the top.
He pointed out the Galli Island, which means rooster. In Greek mythology Sirens lived on it - half fish, half bird.
Olive trees are taller here, so farmers don't pick them, but place nets underneath. Then they sort the good from the bad. Some locals say they aren't as good. Also fig trees here.
Off the mini bus and back on our large one, on which Piero will drive us to Rome.
We think we have reckless motorcycle drivers at home. They're insane here. So many take terrible chances. (Later that night we saw a fallen one on a Rome street). We just saw one squeeze between our large bus and an oncoming bus on a two lane road.
Driving past Naples now. There are many tall apartment buildings of various styles. Lots of laundry hanging off racks on the upper decks.
Back in Rome
Four million population. Igor said the Ring Road was built "recently" - right after WWII. Their concept of old and new is much different than ours! It connects all areas of the city. Before it was built, only farmers lived in the outlying areas. But the road enabled people to get places faster and the areas outside the ring expanded quickly.
Four of our group had a problem in a restaurant in Positano, so we were 20 minutes late leaving there. Then we drove through a construction zone, so we will only have a half hour to get our room keys, take our luggage, or wait for the porters to bring it, and change or whatever before we leave for the dinner show. Many of us spent a long time waiting our turn for the small elevators.
We're staying in the Holiday Inn tonite-half hour from the airport. We're going to an opera show in the Tanagra restaurant. That's Greek for pottery and the building used to be a pottery factory.
We passed a stadium and spas that Mussolini had built. Above the River Tiber is a beautiful villa owned by Pope Paul III.
I said we should thank the three young kids who have been so well-behaved on our trip: Isabelle, 10; and brothers, Noah, 8 and Nathan, 12. Everyone agreed and also that we had enjoyed the college kids: Dustin and Tiffany, Anthony, and Matt and Lauren, along with the other young people.
Opera began in Italy. The singers performed between courses. This was another earlier meal, for the 185 or so tourists in the restaurant. They try to cater to the Americans' earlier schedule. And we all leave tomorrow. We can't imagine eating this much food this late every night. I'll share what the meal was:
1. Very thinly sliced beef with small pieces of lettuce on top
2. Creamy rice with mushrooms
3. Penne in red sauce with a few pieces of asparagus
4. Veal slices in gravy, broasted potatoes, cooked spinach or other vegetable
5. Multi-layer cake with sparkling wine
6. Wine during the meal
One singer walked around the room and touched every man there. Kissed a cheek, rubbed a head or face. Sat on our Keith's lap. Puckered Tom's lips, but didn't kiss them.
Barber of Seveille. Guy picked a man from the audience and brought him onstage. Put shaving cream all over his face and bald head. Then put a towel over his face long enough to pull out a gigantic knife-cardboard or plastic, probably. Then they pulled a couple of people up front to dance, including Courtney from our group. Then everyone waved their hands, holding their napkins, and sang Arrevadecci, Roma.
Back on the bus Igor said he'd heard there are some singers in the group. "Tom Campbell, lead us off." He sang "I Just Don't Look Good Naked Anymore" and people roared so he paused between each phrase. Then he sang the nursing home song he likes and they laughed at that too. Last line: "I spent the night in the chair, there was more of her there, side by side."
Christy sang a Disney mermaid song and we all sang Amazing Grace with her. Tim and his wife sang a Mexican duet. The Italian guide sang "Crazy". That was a surprise.
We all asked the driver, Piero, to sing, but he refused. So he had to pay by listening to us sing "The wheels on the bus" to him! And then Arrevadecci, Roma again.
Today someone of our group asked Igor if he'd ever had a bad group to lead and he said "Yes, this one" and laughed. Now he sincerely thanked us for a great 11 days, being unified from starting as a group of strangers, honoring the customs and culture of Italy, and being so much fun.
Ev with Piero, our driver, and Igor, our 40-year old guide Igor.
We all said our goodbyes and headed to bed at 10:40. 339 stairs.
Isle of Capri to Sorrento, to Positano on the Amalfi Coast, back to Rome.
6:45 At breakfast in the pretty dining room in our LaPalma Hotel. The ceiling has sheer white fabric from all corners to the center. There is a tall "tree" made of flower pots.
Some in our group stayed up until 2 a.m. watching the World Cup. Are they ever dragging this morning! Had to have suitcases in the hall at 6:15, I think. Here is a shot of Tom standing next to a couple of the miniature vans they use to haul stuff from the ferries to the shops and hotels.
Walked several blocks to the funicular to ride down to the port to board the ferry to Sorrento (we had come here from Naples.) This ride wasn't as choppy as that had been and our island boat tour. But it still wasn't smooth on the 35 minute ride.
Walked off the ferry with 2 women pulling zippered bags. I asked them if they were going shopping and they said yes, everything is so much cheaper than on Capri. I asked what they would probably buy and they said "everything." Later we saw a lot of nice produce stands, so am sure they probably have their favorite one.
Igor pointed out the Excelsior Vittoria Hotel on the hill above the port-150'. It is the most expensive hotel in Italy. (yellowish building)
Sorrento has 16,000 residents. It is a very popular place for tourists, too, because of its easy access to several other places.
We boarded 2 mini buses to reach our tour starting place. Ours was short a seat for Igor. He said "I know all these places by heart, so I could even lay on the floor." But he stood.
When he talked to this driver it was mainly in Neapolitan-the local dialect-with occasional Italian thrown in. Many of the drivers in these places know him from prior trips. (Many of the places we visited do not allow the full-sized buses in the towns. So our driver, Piero, would have to take it to a bus lot and wait for us-sometimes for two days. One time I asked him if he missed us, and he said "Yes, but I cleaned the bus very much - it is like new for all of you.") The first day Igor told us Piero treated the bus as if it was his own and no one was to bring pizza, chocolate, or gelato aboard!
35,000 years ago a volcano erupted in this area.
There is a cool breeze where we're standing in an alleyway. Igor said for many years there were pasta and wool factories that had started in the 1600's. It was so humid up above where they were, that the pollution was terrible and they closed them. Later this area we're in was built to come down to the harbor.
We saw tall Mediterranean palms and, shortly, we walked into the courtyard of St. Francis Church and the chiastro (garden area) built in the 1400's. Concerts are held here now.
Down the block is a banana tree-not typical in Italy. Gardenia bushes. We looked down to the sea and across to Naples and Mt. Vesuvius and the port of Sorrento.
Surrentum was the name of a siren (mermaid-woman legend), who lived in the bay.
This area is famous for cotton and linen.
Next we walked to an ancient area where we saw the Cathedral of Sorrento with its red bell tower from the 11th c. The church was built on top of a church that had been dedicated to Minerva.
The pillars in the front are from the original Roman temple.
Walked next to medieval buildings on narrow north-south and east-west streets. Igor told us the city was laid out that way so the residents could see clear to the ends of the streets to see if invaders were coming.
There was a small raised area with metal walls and a pretty fresco. He said people play cards here in the evenings.
The cathedral was remodeled with new Baroque decorations in 1920's.
We visited an inlaid wood factory that had beautiful items. One of the sons (40's, probably) explained that the business had been run by his family since 1852 and explained that they select a drawing and place it on top of several thin layers of wood veneers. Then they use a scroll saw that is about 5' x 12' so it flips around the wood.
For someone to become one of these artists, he first has to be gifted, then go through a 5 year training period. They apply 6 coats of polyurethane on matte or other finish. He put a lighter against a finished piece and it didn't burn. He said these pieces are to be used-with food, drinks, etc., if they are lazy Susans, coasters, etc.
He showed us a table his dad invented in the 1950's that is now world famous-with several game boards and a whole chess set stored in it.
We bought a coaster depicting Sorrento. This man has a place in Miami-said Italians love Miami. He said his family works very hard during the tourist season and then goes to America.
It was interesting to talk to two people in our group about things they learned in this shop today. One man said he knew his mom had bought a wood inlaid table in Italy, but had no idea what it is worth-they are selling things that were hers. He saw one similar to hers and talked to someone in this family who said he could probably appraise it if he receives a picture. So our new friend said that table is going to his home, not anyone else's. A lady said she was offered a music box from someone in her husband's family, but passed it up. Saw a similar one and now wishes she had kept it-they were very expensive. We talked about how we all need to have lists, or label items that are unusual, expensive, etc., because family members probably won't know their sentimental or cash value after we're gone.
We've seen 4 bikes this morning-the first ones I've seen in any of these towns. Sure not like in all the European cities we visited last summer, where there were thousands. As we walked towards our tour bus there was a neat gully full of vegetation. Igor said the brick structure in it was one of the old mills for a pasta factory.
I noticed a beautiful purple jacaranda tree in the park as we drove by. Real estate offices are called immobiliers here in Italy, as in other countries over here.
We rode down narrow, busy streets on the coast, full of shops. One is called the Lavenderia. Small trucks parked along the road, from which people are selling their produce. Igor tells us it is organic and many of the locals have started buying cheaper produce from neighboring countries, etc., so the farmers sell to all the tourists who travel this road. The stuff looks good from the bus!
We saw a Coke delivery truck that was smaller than a Tahoe. Pedestrians walking along the side of the streets that are already narrow, with two vehicles side by side. No thanks. Motorcycles rushing between vehicles.
It's very overcast, but not raining. Of course all the photographers would prefer a sunny day. We're high above the ocean now.
All kinds of cars are parked along the road, with part of their vehicle sticking out. The first two must have been the occupants of houses that were up one side and down the other side of the hillsides and evidently don't have driveways.
Our two mini buses stop on the road, taking up most of the right lane. Very common and accepted. Cars behind us slowed down, and went around the buses when it was safe. I could see major road rage in America if that happened. We've pulled over in one of two places where we'll see a beautiful view. Five boats are leaving pretty wakes below.
Next stop is so we can see the city of Positano from above. Wow! Pretty houses and other buildings built all up the hillside. Most are white, but a few are painted pastel colors. Several have beautiful bougainvillea plants growing on them.
Igor goes between both buses, counting to be sure all 44 people are on board. I told him it'd be easier on our large bus if he just looked for an empty seat, since we have a full vehicle. He laughed and then told all of us that on one of the first tours he conducted 19 years ago, the bus was pulling out of the parking area and a woman started pounding on the outside and yelling to let her in. He said every time since then he actually counts the people. One couple has dubbed him Count Igor.
We have to stop at the top of the hill above town to wait for another mini bus that is coming up the narrow road.
Guide shows us a parking lot where the cars are literally about 6" apart. No way could a driver get out of his side. But how could he get out the right side if someone is parked there? Parking is so expensive, because of the shortage of spaces.
Positano is known for fashion and sandals, which can be made for you in 20 minutes. The sole is ready and a buyer chooses the straps they want.
Walked down, down stairs and streets to the beach. Shared a sandwich.
Two little girls had a blanket with plastic bracelets for sale-like the ones the young American girls are making. Bought 2 for our great nieces who like to make them.
Really looks like rain and we have to walk back up to the bus. But, it didn't start before we left.
Back on the bus, with Igor giving us more information. The Amalfis were a people who had a maritime kingdom like the people of Genoa, Pisa, and Venice. They sailed to other lands from here.
In the 1960's Sophia Loren was made an honorary citizen of Positano. Soon other move stars began travelling there, as did the Kennedys. Soon the area took off as a tourist area. Fishing is a minor part of the economy now.
John Steinbeck wrote Positano, about the Amalfi Coast.
A lot of produce and hazelnuts grow here. The Latari Mountains are on our right-sheer rock cliffs. There is a park on the top.
He pointed out the Galli Island, which means rooster. In Greek mythology Sirens lived on it - half fish, half bird.
Olive trees are taller here, so farmers don't pick them, but place nets underneath. Then they sort the good from the bad. Some locals say they aren't as good. Also fig trees here.
Off the mini bus and back on our large one, on which Piero will drive us to Rome.
We think we have reckless motorcycle drivers at home. They're insane here. So many take terrible chances. (Later that night we saw a fallen one on a Rome street). We just saw one squeeze between our large bus and an oncoming bus on a two lane road.
Driving past Naples now. There are many tall apartment buildings of various styles. Lots of laundry hanging off racks on the upper decks.
Back in Rome
Four million population. Igor said the Ring Road was built "recently" - right after WWII. Their concept of old and new is much different than ours! It connects all areas of the city. Before it was built, only farmers lived in the outlying areas. But the road enabled people to get places faster and the areas outside the ring expanded quickly.
Four of our group had a problem in a restaurant in Positano, so we were 20 minutes late leaving there. Then we drove through a construction zone, so we will only have a half hour to get our room keys, take our luggage, or wait for the porters to bring it, and change or whatever before we leave for the dinner show. Many of us spent a long time waiting our turn for the small elevators.
We're staying in the Holiday Inn tonite-half hour from the airport. We're going to an opera show in the Tanagra restaurant. That's Greek for pottery and the building used to be a pottery factory.
We passed a stadium and spas that Mussolini had built. Above the River Tiber is a beautiful villa owned by Pope Paul III.
I said we should thank the three young kids who have been so well-behaved on our trip: Isabelle, 10; and brothers, Noah, 8 and Nathan, 12. Everyone agreed and also that we had enjoyed the college kids: Dustin and Tiffany, Anthony, and Matt and Lauren, along with the other young people.
Opera began in Italy. The singers performed between courses. This was another earlier meal, for the 185 or so tourists in the restaurant. They try to cater to the Americans' earlier schedule. And we all leave tomorrow. We can't imagine eating this much food this late every night. I'll share what the meal was:
1. Very thinly sliced beef with small pieces of lettuce on top
2. Creamy rice with mushrooms
3. Penne in red sauce with a few pieces of asparagus
4. Veal slices in gravy, broasted potatoes, cooked spinach or other vegetable
5. Multi-layer cake with sparkling wine
6. Wine during the meal
One singer walked around the room and touched every man there. Kissed a cheek, rubbed a head or face. Sat on our Keith's lap. Puckered Tom's lips, but didn't kiss them.
Barber of Seveille. Guy picked a man from the audience and brought him onstage. Put shaving cream all over his face and bald head. Then put a towel over his face long enough to pull out a gigantic knife-cardboard or plastic, probably. Then they pulled a couple of people up front to dance, including Courtney from our group. Then everyone waved their hands, holding their napkins, and sang Arrevadecci, Roma.
Back on the bus Igor said he'd heard there are some singers in the group. "Tom Campbell, lead us off." He sang "I Just Don't Look Good Naked Anymore" and people roared so he paused between each phrase. Then he sang the nursing home song he likes and they laughed at that too. Last line: "I spent the night in the chair, there was more of her there, side by side."
Christy sang a Disney mermaid song and we all sang Amazing Grace with her. Tim and his wife sang a Mexican duet. The Italian guide sang "Crazy". That was a surprise.
We all asked the driver, Piero, to sing, but he refused. So he had to pay by listening to us sing "The wheels on the bus" to him! And then Arrevadecci, Roma again.
Today someone of our group asked Igor if he'd ever had a bad group to lead and he said "Yes, this one" and laughed. Now he sincerely thanked us for a great 11 days, being unified from starting as a group of strangers, honoring the customs and culture of Italy, and being so much fun.
We all said our goodbyes and headed to bed at 10:40. 339 stairs.
Sunday, June 22, 2014
Monday, June 16th On Isle of Capri
6/16: mid 90's and humid
There are few cars except some taxis that were especially designed for the island-have a canvas top spread over it.
They are only allowed to drive in certain places. Tiny little motor carts haul stuff around. The garbage trucks are little larger than a Tahoe. Tiny city minibuses have 5 seats and room for a few to stand. Tiny police car. Men push all kinds of items on dollies to deliver them in the pedestrian-only areas. Everything comes to the island from the mainland-even the water system.
Capri pants were designed here-yay! I wear them 95% of the time in AZ.
Walking tour with a guide:
10,000-15,000 daily visitors on the island. 13,000 permanent residents. Most are extremely wealthy and inherited their land and/or homes. (I always wonder how the service workers can afford to live in these areas.)
Euctalyptus trees were imported from Australia to aid with the swamps, which held mosquitoes, which caused malaria. Oleander trees were brought over because they keep down auto pollution.
Vehicles are hurrying around. Trash trucks off streets by 9:30 a.m. Mini traffic jam where we're trying to cross the street-with mini vehicles!
Walked a couple of blocks to Villa San Michelle, which had been owned by a Swedish doctor. He was a musician, composer. His foundation still sends 24 kids every year to music school. Was one of the most famous medical doctors in Europe. Was also an archaeologist. The Queen of Sweden gave him money at one time. He loved dogs and baboons, and had both. We asked what 2 little plaques in a wall were: Tom and Fellow. Guide said they were 2 of his favorite dogs.
One of the rooms in his home had a mosaic skeleton design inside on the floor inside the door. It was common at that time and served as a reminder that we all have to die, so enjoy life now!
The grounds had 113 kinds of tropical plants and 800+ species of flowers and plants. It was very pretty this morning and it was a pleasant walk through those and listening to birds. Left the guide.
We walked until we found the Church of St. Michael because Igor had suggested we visit it. It is a very small building with the whole floor in the sanctuary (no seats now) being a beautiful ,2,500 tile mosaic of the Garden of Eden. Tom walked up 26 circular stairs to take pictures looking down also.
The guide had told us that in early years the people on the island were very poor. Many men immigrated to Argentina to work and send money back.
He had explained a vineyard that we walked past. The farmers here grow the vines on very high stakes. Also, that Capt. Cook brought bouginvillea plants here from Tahiti.
Rode a mini bus down the 900' mountain-winding, narrow roads, crazy motorcyclists, our bus passing other mini buses on the narrow roads. Scary ride. Igor told us not to worry because the island has a hospital.
At the marina we boarded a boat carrying just our group for a one hour tour of the island. Water was so choppy and I was glad I had taken a Dramamine. The water is so blue, yet looks green along the shoreline. We couldn't get into the blue grotto because of the sea condition. We looked into a green one and a pink one. The green one has limestone walls.
Three tall rocks are side by side. One has a hole large enough for our boat to sail through-it is called the tunnel of love. If you sail through it, it is said, you and your lover will never leave each other. No kiss for me since Tom was outside taking pictures. Igor was close to the local guide who told him not to kiss him because he isn't his type. They all know each other and have a lot of fun when they see each other again.
The guide pointed out the restaurant on the hillside where we will have dinner tonight. It has several huge villas belonging to the very rich around it.
Glad to leave that choppy ride. Took the funicular back to the town center and had a beer and Coke at a sidewalk cafe.
It's spitting rain. Igor had told us it isn't common in mid June. Raining harder, so headed to the hotel. Soon it was pouring. Good time to organize suitcases and take a short nap. It rained a couple of hours.
6:00 All of us walked a few blocks to meet the vans which would take us around the bay to the Hotel Ambassador for dinner. While walking, we heard drums and singing, turned a corner, and saw people standing around and clapping. Igor told us it was a wedding. 8-10 drummers, dressed in local costumes, lined the steps of a restaurant. Soon the bride and groom walked out. I asked Igor if Monday was a typical day for a wedding and he said no, but it was probably cheaper that day. (All during the trip, we wore small headphones and radios to hear the guide, who wore a microphone.)
The restaurant at the hotel (blue awnings) overlooks the ocean and all the surrounding hillsides on two sides with the gorgeous villas. One had a stone facade, which really blended in with the hillside. The one closest to it was a huge white one. I and another man were talking about it and I said it probably cost half a million just to bring the materials from the mainland and haul them up that tall hillside by crane or however they hauled them.
Two yachts are moored below. Another gigantic villa is on another hillside. Two of us made up this story and we're sticking to it: They had to buy the villa to keep an eye on their yacht. They have a helicopter pad at the villa. A little later a small boat brought people to one of the yacht and the lights in it came on.
Igor had dinner served more on American's schedule tonight - 7:00 or so
Pizza with cheese and cherry tomatoes (for every 4 people).
Choice of first course-we picked ravioli, lasagna, and breaded veal cutlets.
Choice of other items on 3rd course: Tom had potatoes and I had broccoli and carrot dish-have never had that combination before, but it was good.
4th course-cake and lemoncello drink (we skipped), coffee or cappuccino.
I just list these to show you how much they eat-crazy.
We sat with Dan, Kelly, Matt, and Lauren Dickson of California. We look forward to seeing them in Tucson when they come over to visit family. Matt is studying reptiles, etc., in college and is anxious for us to see a Gila monster at home, take a picture of it, and email it to him, because he's never seen one. (We have seen one - crossing the road at Saguaro Natl. Park, but there was a large one in the subdivision last year.)
It was a very pleasant evening and the ride back was crazy again. We don't know how 2 cars or mini buses can pass on these narrow streets, but they do, even if someone is walking on the side, too. Scary.
Arrived at the van lot and it started pouring. I was prepared with my poncho and rain bonnet. By the time we walked a block or so it was a gentle rain. Ankles are very swollen again.
306 stairs - me Tom had the extra 52 at the church
There are few cars except some taxis that were especially designed for the island-have a canvas top spread over it.
Capri pants were designed here-yay! I wear them 95% of the time in AZ.
Walking tour with a guide:
10,000-15,000 daily visitors on the island. 13,000 permanent residents. Most are extremely wealthy and inherited their land and/or homes. (I always wonder how the service workers can afford to live in these areas.)
Euctalyptus trees were imported from Australia to aid with the swamps, which held mosquitoes, which caused malaria. Oleander trees were brought over because they keep down auto pollution.
Vehicles are hurrying around. Trash trucks off streets by 9:30 a.m. Mini traffic jam where we're trying to cross the street-with mini vehicles!
Walked a couple of blocks to Villa San Michelle, which had been owned by a Swedish doctor. He was a musician, composer. His foundation still sends 24 kids every year to music school. Was one of the most famous medical doctors in Europe. Was also an archaeologist. The Queen of Sweden gave him money at one time. He loved dogs and baboons, and had both. We asked what 2 little plaques in a wall were: Tom and Fellow. Guide said they were 2 of his favorite dogs.
One of the rooms in his home had a mosaic skeleton design inside on the floor inside the door. It was common at that time and served as a reminder that we all have to die, so enjoy life now!
The grounds had 113 kinds of tropical plants and 800+ species of flowers and plants. It was very pretty this morning and it was a pleasant walk through those and listening to birds. Left the guide.
We walked until we found the Church of St. Michael because Igor had suggested we visit it. It is a very small building with the whole floor in the sanctuary (no seats now) being a beautiful ,2,500 tile mosaic of the Garden of Eden. Tom walked up 26 circular stairs to take pictures looking down also.
He had explained a vineyard that we walked past. The farmers here grow the vines on very high stakes. Also, that Capt. Cook brought bouginvillea plants here from Tahiti.
Rode a mini bus down the 900' mountain-winding, narrow roads, crazy motorcyclists, our bus passing other mini buses on the narrow roads. Scary ride. Igor told us not to worry because the island has a hospital.
At the marina we boarded a boat carrying just our group for a one hour tour of the island. Water was so choppy and I was glad I had taken a Dramamine. The water is so blue, yet looks green along the shoreline. We couldn't get into the blue grotto because of the sea condition. We looked into a green one and a pink one. The green one has limestone walls.
Three tall rocks are side by side. One has a hole large enough for our boat to sail through-it is called the tunnel of love. If you sail through it, it is said, you and your lover will never leave each other. No kiss for me since Tom was outside taking pictures. Igor was close to the local guide who told him not to kiss him because he isn't his type. They all know each other and have a lot of fun when they see each other again.
The guide pointed out the restaurant on the hillside where we will have dinner tonight. It has several huge villas belonging to the very rich around it.
Glad to leave that choppy ride. Took the funicular back to the town center and had a beer and Coke at a sidewalk cafe.
6:00 All of us walked a few blocks to meet the vans which would take us around the bay to the Hotel Ambassador for dinner. While walking, we heard drums and singing, turned a corner, and saw people standing around and clapping. Igor told us it was a wedding. 8-10 drummers, dressed in local costumes, lined the steps of a restaurant. Soon the bride and groom walked out. I asked Igor if Monday was a typical day for a wedding and he said no, but it was probably cheaper that day. (All during the trip, we wore small headphones and radios to hear the guide, who wore a microphone.)
The restaurant at the hotel (blue awnings) overlooks the ocean and all the surrounding hillsides on two sides with the gorgeous villas. One had a stone facade, which really blended in with the hillside. The one closest to it was a huge white one. I and another man were talking about it and I said it probably cost half a million just to bring the materials from the mainland and haul them up that tall hillside by crane or however they hauled them.
Two yachts are moored below. Another gigantic villa is on another hillside. Two of us made up this story and we're sticking to it: They had to buy the villa to keep an eye on their yacht. They have a helicopter pad at the villa. A little later a small boat brought people to one of the yacht and the lights in it came on.
Igor had dinner served more on American's schedule tonight - 7:00 or so
Pizza with cheese and cherry tomatoes (for every 4 people).
Choice of first course-we picked ravioli, lasagna, and breaded veal cutlets.
Choice of other items on 3rd course: Tom had potatoes and I had broccoli and carrot dish-have never had that combination before, but it was good.
4th course-cake and lemoncello drink (we skipped), coffee or cappuccino.
I just list these to show you how much they eat-crazy.
We sat with Dan, Kelly, Matt, and Lauren Dickson of California. We look forward to seeing them in Tucson when they come over to visit family. Matt is studying reptiles, etc., in college and is anxious for us to see a Gila monster at home, take a picture of it, and email it to him, because he's never seen one. (We have seen one - crossing the road at Saguaro Natl. Park, but there was a large one in the subdivision last year.)
It was a very pleasant evening and the ride back was crazy again. We don't know how 2 cars or mini buses can pass on these narrow streets, but they do, even if someone is walking on the side, too. Scary.
Arrived at the van lot and it started pouring. I was prepared with my poncho and rain bonnet. By the time we walked a block or so it was a gentle rain. Ankles are very swollen again.
306 stairs - me Tom had the extra 52 at the church
Sunday, June 15th-Assisi to Pompeii to Isle of Capri
Sunday, June 15th Assisi to Pompeii to Capri Island
mid 90's and humid
My ankles are back to normal. Met in lobby and Igor said I'll teach you an Italian saying - A good start is a better start. So, Andiamo (another word he taught us-means let's go!) On the bus again.
He pointed out the rose bushes planted at the end of each vineyard row. A lot of bugs don't like roses, so those bushes stop them from getting on the vines. Maybe they should start doing that in America!
A mile from the hotel it started raining. One hour out it was only 17 deg celsius-most days it has been 31-36 (90's). Gas has been equivalent to $6.48 per gallon in most of the stations we've seen-even $6.52. About what we paid for the 5 weeks we drove in 7 countries last year. Hollyhocks are growing along the highway.
We'll go around Rome, so this trip will take about 6 hours.
Olives grow in this region - seems they grow most places here. Extra virgin means those that are grown where the acidity in the soil is about zero.
Igor told us a couple of stories about his growing up.
Someone asked the difference between a basilica and church.
Church is a gathering place. Basilica originally was like a courthouse. Now it means it holds relics.
It is pouring now. All the traffic has slowed and have their blinkers going.
Passed the Benedictine monastery of Monte Cassino-they invented mosaics, miniatures, wrote books. Some books had such small writing that a magnifying glass was needed. It was because they walked long distances to give them away.
During WWII the British ordered it bombed because the Germans were using it for observation of the entire valley below.. Turned out to be a mistake because they could hide even better in the rubble. After the war, the Allies rebuilt it at a cost of over 1.5 million dollars. Of course, Tom knew this story as soon as Igor mentioned what we'd seen. He is a walking encyclopedia about WWII, in case any of you don't know.
The Romans usually measured by miles, not kilometers as the Europeans use today.
I asked what kind of buffalo are in Italy because we keep seeing "buffalo milk mozzarella" on menus. He said it is a river buffalo and the milk is very rich.
Today I have on a shirt on that I bought in Arizona. It has 4 wine bottles and says group therapy. Igor, the driver, and others like it.
One day I wore one that said Wine Lover and Igor kidded me because he had told me he liked it, and then that evening I was drinking a bloody Mary instead of wine.
POMPEII
Rows of vendors with cheap souvenirs down below the village in the parking lot. Igor pointed out huge lemons called oval lemons someone was selling - are used for lemon candy and the lemonade drink.
Walked along the bottom of the ruins, then up some stairs to the theatre. Then up ramps, stairs to the city at the top. Walked some blocks and could feel my ankles starting to swell every time we stopped to listen to the guide. I decided I'd better go ahead and walk down so I didn't have problems that required aid. Huge boulders formed the road, etc. Sure didn't want anyone to try to carry me or something. So I missed an hour of that tour. I walked into the art gallery at the bottom and told the owner I was on Igor's bus tour and showed him my ankles and he said take this comfortable chair. I had bought the coldest bottle of water the vendor had and just laid it back and forth on both ankles. The sitting and that helped. Tom got great pictures, of course.
I saw the old shop foundations, well, etc. Tom said they were shown the red light district (with suggestions on the wall) and some marble forming a walkway that shone in the dark.
I won't write anymore about this area, because everyone knows what happened here and google any other information.
Back on the bus
Passed Naples. Such a variety of vegetation along the highway-from the tall umbrella pines, palm trees, and all the deciduous trees, cacti.
Getting close to Capri Island ferry. Whirlpool factory or some big building of theirs in an industrial section. Docks full of container ships and containers - for those of you who haven't been to ports in America or any other country, these are the containers that ride on the rail cars - with all the Chinese names, usually!
Walked to the ferry. Our large luggage was taken to it for us. One hour ride to island. Walk a ways to the funicular that was long and took us up the hill to the city center. Our hotel is a few blocks away and we walked. The LaPalma Hotel - the palms. $500-1,000 per night on this very expensive island. Don't know what we paid as part of the tour-46 people stayed there from our bus. Our hotel is the favorite one of the Italian President on this island.
We went with many others to a tratoria (bistro) where they gave us such a good deal - right! But Igor said it was a really good price for here. Usually way too much food and late in the evening, so Tom and I split the meal and paid a small fee for the privilege. But, the wine was free! We just can't imagine eating pizza or some other big appetizer, pasta, meat and potatoes, salad, and dessert at 9 and 10 p.m. By the way, someone told me the Europeans eat the salad after the other main courses because it is supposed to help digestion. Maybe that's their secret! Every night's dinner hour is a social event. They walk so much compared to most Americans and almost every local we saw everywhere was thin.
I tried half a shot of the lemoncello drink. Oh my gosh-I sputtered and choked, chugged water, and was still coughing 10 minutes later as we were walking. Some people love it there and some of our tour people liked it.
Igor had told us he'd take anyone who wanted to go for a walk after dinner in the dark. We passed villas and private hotels in a very pretty area of town filled with vegetation. Stopped midway to look way down onto the ocean, the boats out on the water and all the lights in the buildings going up the hillsides. Most of the tiny shops were closed, of course. Capri is a very expensive shopping area, with some of the big name designers having boutiques there.
Back to the room. Almost ready for bed and the lights and a/c went off. Tom called reception and then opened the door and about 6 of the other rooms near us were the same. Men came right up - 10:30- and had it back on in a minute-sounded like it was probably a circuit thrown. Someone probably tried to use a hairdryer or something in the outlet that is only for razors. Their current and outlets are different there. Require adapters to use American items.
We said again tonite that it would be nice to have someplace to open 2 suitcases. Most of the time we didn't unpack.
Busy and tiring day. Up and down cobblestone streets, walked 5-6 blocks on a boulder road in Pompeii. Plus all the walking here on Capri. 422 stairs
One of the gals flew from Newark, N.J. to Rome, with a stop in Scandanavia, but her luggage didn't make it, so she's had to buy everything. No one could find it from Sunday to Thursday. They finally called her Friday and said they'd send it to someone in Newark.
One of the men on the tour, Keith, debated about coming on the trip with his family because his dad has been terminally ill. He passed away on the weekend.
mid 90's and humid
My ankles are back to normal. Met in lobby and Igor said I'll teach you an Italian saying - A good start is a better start. So, Andiamo (another word he taught us-means let's go!) On the bus again.
He pointed out the rose bushes planted at the end of each vineyard row. A lot of bugs don't like roses, so those bushes stop them from getting on the vines. Maybe they should start doing that in America!
A mile from the hotel it started raining. One hour out it was only 17 deg celsius-most days it has been 31-36 (90's). Gas has been equivalent to $6.48 per gallon in most of the stations we've seen-even $6.52. About what we paid for the 5 weeks we drove in 7 countries last year. Hollyhocks are growing along the highway.
We'll go around Rome, so this trip will take about 6 hours.
Olives grow in this region - seems they grow most places here. Extra virgin means those that are grown where the acidity in the soil is about zero.
Igor told us a couple of stories about his growing up.
Someone asked the difference between a basilica and church.
Church is a gathering place. Basilica originally was like a courthouse. Now it means it holds relics.
It is pouring now. All the traffic has slowed and have their blinkers going.
Passed the Benedictine monastery of Monte Cassino-they invented mosaics, miniatures, wrote books. Some books had such small writing that a magnifying glass was needed. It was because they walked long distances to give them away.
During WWII the British ordered it bombed because the Germans were using it for observation of the entire valley below.. Turned out to be a mistake because they could hide even better in the rubble. After the war, the Allies rebuilt it at a cost of over 1.5 million dollars. Of course, Tom knew this story as soon as Igor mentioned what we'd seen. He is a walking encyclopedia about WWII, in case any of you don't know.
I asked what kind of buffalo are in Italy because we keep seeing "buffalo milk mozzarella" on menus. He said it is a river buffalo and the milk is very rich.
Today I have on a shirt on that I bought in Arizona. It has 4 wine bottles and says group therapy. Igor, the driver, and others like it.
One day I wore one that said Wine Lover and Igor kidded me because he had told me he liked it, and then that evening I was drinking a bloody Mary instead of wine.
POMPEII
Rows of vendors with cheap souvenirs down below the village in the parking lot. Igor pointed out huge lemons called oval lemons someone was selling - are used for lemon candy and the lemonade drink.
Walked along the bottom of the ruins, then up some stairs to the theatre. Then up ramps, stairs to the city at the top. Walked some blocks and could feel my ankles starting to swell every time we stopped to listen to the guide. I decided I'd better go ahead and walk down so I didn't have problems that required aid. Huge boulders formed the road, etc. Sure didn't want anyone to try to carry me or something. So I missed an hour of that tour. I walked into the art gallery at the bottom and told the owner I was on Igor's bus tour and showed him my ankles and he said take this comfortable chair. I had bought the coldest bottle of water the vendor had and just laid it back and forth on both ankles. The sitting and that helped. Tom got great pictures, of course.
I saw the old shop foundations, well, etc. Tom said they were shown the red light district (with suggestions on the wall) and some marble forming a walkway that shone in the dark.
I won't write anymore about this area, because everyone knows what happened here and google any other information.
Back on the bus
Passed Naples. Such a variety of vegetation along the highway-from the tall umbrella pines, palm trees, and all the deciduous trees, cacti.
Getting close to Capri Island ferry. Whirlpool factory or some big building of theirs in an industrial section. Docks full of container ships and containers - for those of you who haven't been to ports in America or any other country, these are the containers that ride on the rail cars - with all the Chinese names, usually!
Walked to the ferry. Our large luggage was taken to it for us. One hour ride to island. Walk a ways to the funicular that was long and took us up the hill to the city center. Our hotel is a few blocks away and we walked. The LaPalma Hotel - the palms. $500-1,000 per night on this very expensive island. Don't know what we paid as part of the tour-46 people stayed there from our bus. Our hotel is the favorite one of the Italian President on this island.
We went with many others to a tratoria (bistro) where they gave us such a good deal - right! But Igor said it was a really good price for here. Usually way too much food and late in the evening, so Tom and I split the meal and paid a small fee for the privilege. But, the wine was free! We just can't imagine eating pizza or some other big appetizer, pasta, meat and potatoes, salad, and dessert at 9 and 10 p.m. By the way, someone told me the Europeans eat the salad after the other main courses because it is supposed to help digestion. Maybe that's their secret! Every night's dinner hour is a social event. They walk so much compared to most Americans and almost every local we saw everywhere was thin.
I tried half a shot of the lemoncello drink. Oh my gosh-I sputtered and choked, chugged water, and was still coughing 10 minutes later as we were walking. Some people love it there and some of our tour people liked it.
Igor had told us he'd take anyone who wanted to go for a walk after dinner in the dark. We passed villas and private hotels in a very pretty area of town filled with vegetation. Stopped midway to look way down onto the ocean, the boats out on the water and all the lights in the buildings going up the hillsides. Most of the tiny shops were closed, of course. Capri is a very expensive shopping area, with some of the big name designers having boutiques there.
Back to the room. Almost ready for bed and the lights and a/c went off. Tom called reception and then opened the door and about 6 of the other rooms near us were the same. Men came right up - 10:30- and had it back on in a minute-sounded like it was probably a circuit thrown. Someone probably tried to use a hairdryer or something in the outlet that is only for razors. Their current and outlets are different there. Require adapters to use American items.
We said again tonite that it would be nice to have someplace to open 2 suitcases. Most of the time we didn't unpack.
Busy and tiring day. Up and down cobblestone streets, walked 5-6 blocks on a boulder road in Pompeii. Plus all the walking here on Capri. 422 stairs
One of the gals flew from Newark, N.J. to Rome, with a stop in Scandanavia, but her luggage didn't make it, so she's had to buy everything. No one could find it from Sunday to Thursday. They finally called her Friday and said they'd send it to someone in Newark.
One of the men on the tour, Keith, debated about coming on the trip with his family because his dad has been terminally ill. He passed away on the weekend.
Saturday, June 21, 2014
June 14th Drive to Assisi
mid 90's, humid
Suitcases in the hall by 6:15 a.m. so porters can transport them by boat to our bus while we eat breakfast and take our water taxi over. We put ours out before 6 and walked out of the hotel and up the stairs of the bridge in front. The stairs, bridge, and sidewalks had a lot of litter. The city has crews who walk around, but Tom said the early crew was hard at work already-pigeons.
After breakfast we walked 10 mins to the water taxi, which is 58' long. It was only a 15 minute ride. When we docked we saw more water rage-one boat evidently docked where another one had planned to.
Assisi is a medieval town on top of a hill in the Umbria Region, Igor told us. We drove onto the mainland. As far as we could see were farm fields with various crops, often with the rows of poplar trees protecting them. Canals through them are used for irrigation.
We're on a two lane road, behind several trucks. Our windshield is larger than a picture window of an old house. Here come 2-3 cars to pass us and as many trucks and cars as they can while trying to avoid a head-on. Unbelievably, they all make it.
Drove across another lagoon that leads into Venice. Just saw a big marina. Then a large shipyard where ships from the Adriatic Sea dock. Eels, mussels, clams, and other fish are in this area. Large nets get lowered when fish are coming in.
Most people on the bus are using their electronics or sleeping. Tom and I always enjoy watching the scenery on every road between the major stops.
Several big rivers aid in irrigation. Sharecropping is still practiced here. Owner and someone who helps him share the crops. Several small wineries around here keep their wine after the owner and helpers make it.
Passed a castle from 1500. A family used this whole area for hunting and built several castles. They did a lot to help the nearby town while here.
Saw the Pomposa Abbey and bell tower from the 9th century.
The man who invented the musical scale-Guido-is from this area.
This is a long drive, so Igor gave us a lot of information.
Northern Italy has more industries and higher wages than the southern part. The Mafia started during the unification of Italy. Lords owned the land and paid mercenary soldiers to protect it. Mussolini was the State Prime Minister and the ruler. Senior citizens today say when he ruled, there was no graffitti, good jobs, and safe towns. Then he aligned with Hitler. Through the Iron Treaty, the two stated that neither country would declare war on the other. Allied troops freed the country. He was caught near Milan, shot, and hanged. Then the Cosa Nostra moved to North America-crime organization on the international level. Badly hurt Italy's economy.
The government is trying to increase commerce in southern Italy. Northerners say they pay more taxes, but it is because most there have higher wages-everyone pays 50% income tax.
Sicily and other places way south are considered like Greece-many monuments and temples still standing after 2000 years. That era inspired the Renaissance.
At one point the art was considered vulgar and genitals were cut off the statues, or covered with fig leaves. Paintings were altered, too.
This month there is a major scandal in the country. They found several politicians were getting paybacks from companies chosen to work on big projects.
Their government is a pyramid shape:
Parliament, Senate, President (who has no power), Regional (20 regions), provinces (106). There are mayors of the communes, like a county mayor.
There are hundreds of dialects in Italy. Many residents in northern Italy are so close to Switzerland and Germany that they speak German. Dante started Italian language. Now Latin is only the official language of the Vatican.
If a company and employee have an illegal agreement to avoid the employee paying 50% income tax, and the government finds out, the owner will be fined and required to sell the company. (Sounds like a plan for our country!)
If the government sees you driving a really expensive car, having a very expensive house, etc., and your job doesn't seem to warrant those expenses and purchases, they will investigate you-check credit card transactions, income sources, everything. They found a woman owned 126 apartments in central Rome, yet was receiving a $400 monthly stipend from the government.
The only way a lot of people can make it in their slow economy is because a lot of families live close, so they eat together, maybe live together, share expenses.
When Italy changed from liras to Euros, the price of everything seemed to go up. Few moms can afford to stay home. Kindergarten costs and most families have to teach their kids for that year. From 1st-5th grade, they learn so much. Then they have a written exam and oral exam, even on the foreign language they were required to take. Then 3 years of middle school. Skills, attitude, etc. determine which kind of school the student will attend next. Igor said he knew when he was 14 that he wanted to be a tour guide and teach people about places and things. He speaks several languages and went to tourism school for 5 years. His teachers at that young age suggested he be a language teacher or tourism director (which he is). He worked in the winter and took some summer trips, learning more language and practicing it. The tourism school curriculum included the various countrys' customs, laws, dietary differences, besides learning about the history, geography, monuments, etc., of each.
Kids sit in the same desk all during high school. If they bring phones to school, don't abide by the dress code, don't have a good attitude, etc., they won't be promoted.
Car driver's licenses are available at 18, but some scooters can be driven by 14 year olds and cycles by 16 year olds. He said it is believed that is why there are such reckless scooter and cycle drivers all over the country.
The bureaucracy makes starting a business very difficult. People know about the American dream where someone can start a business in their garage and be rich soon. Here, you could start in a garage and years later you'd still be in the garage. The laws, etc., are suffocating, and it takes lots of money to grease the wheels.
We've been driving through beautiful rolling hills. Yes, I am paying attention to things besides my notebook! I make chicken scratches and write it out later.
Arrived in Assisi.
The new gate was built in the 1400's. Buildings are of pink limestone bricks-caused by the iron content. There are 1000 permanent residents. Rely mainly on tourism, though there are banks, a hospital, schools.
First, into St. Clare's Church. She was a rich girl who befriended St. Francis. She started living frugally and simply and started an order for women that was similar to the Franciscan Order. The church was started to remember her. She died in the 1250's at age 60. Huge rose window. Lion statue symbolizing Christianity and God.
The fortress above the town was built in 1362 by the Pope-one of many on hilltops in the country. At that time they had Papal authority-were like rulers, in competition with the emperors.
In a chapel, on a cross from the 1100's, Jesus was painted as being alive. Heretics said he wasn't human and didn't die.
Beautiful arches, frescoes. Cleaning, humidity, oxygen, lights are affecting the frescoes. The sanctuary cross shows the crucified Jesus.
Our guide, Lara, said she's a typical Italian mom-had the audacity to name her two sons Leonardo and Michelangelo!
The houses across from the church were built in the 1500's and are still occupied.
The area is known for the very expensive black truffles, and olive oil, sagrentino wine. Textiles are the local crafts.
Government buildings here date from 1200-1300's.
Stopped to admire the outside of the Roman temple of Minerva-1st century B.C. The holes above the columns are from former bronze letters spelling out names of sponsors. Is now a Franciscan church. Was remodeled inside a few years ago-in the 1600's.
Stopped at a long trough on the side of a building. She had shown us the community laundry area a few blocks back. A sign above this trough says women may not do their laundry in it. She said last week a man asked if men were allowed to do their laundry there. She said she thought she must be having a vision-to think an Italian man would do anything like that. But, she said, with most women working, man are starting to help around the house.
Note: In every area we had a local guide. The reason Igor couldn't guide us in the towns, etc., is because the local and national guides belong to separate unions.
Learning about St. Francis of Assisi:
His father was very wealthy. Francis was in a war in the Army, then spent years alone. Then he wanted to spend his time with the poor, lepers, etc. His father told him to leave town. Every day he behaved like Jesus. Lived in a hut in a muddy area. He became ill at age 44 and died in 1226. The Pope canonized him in 1228.
The Basilica of St. Francis is two churches-one on top of the other. No pictures are allowed taken inside. All the frescoes are intact except for two sections that came crashing down during an earthquake a few years ago. There was a bad earthquake in 1997-the day after a mild one. Two friars and two workers were inspecting the damage from the first one when the second one hit. Two spots of the roof fell, killing all 4.
The frescoes were totally reconstructed with the original pieces. There are 28 frescoes of St. Francis' life. .
The second church is a 1253 Gothic Style. The stained glass windows were painted in the 1300's.
St. Francis' remains had been under the altar upstairs, but were moved downstairs in 1930.
As I was walking to the hotel I felt like my shoes were getting tighter. By the time we got to the room, the outer ankles were the size of baseballs. Iced before dinner, twice after, and slept with feet elevated. So humid, so much walking, 870 stairs yesterday, and several hours on the bus today took its toll.
We sat with an Australian couple from our group at dinner. Her son has been deployed to Afghanistan 5 times and would be going again, but he has decided to get out of the military. He is single, but agreed with her that it is more than a mom should have to endure (or him).
366 stairs
Suitcases in the hall by 6:15 a.m. so porters can transport them by boat to our bus while we eat breakfast and take our water taxi over. We put ours out before 6 and walked out of the hotel and up the stairs of the bridge in front. The stairs, bridge, and sidewalks had a lot of litter. The city has crews who walk around, but Tom said the early crew was hard at work already-pigeons.
After breakfast we walked 10 mins to the water taxi, which is 58' long. It was only a 15 minute ride. When we docked we saw more water rage-one boat evidently docked where another one had planned to.
Assisi is a medieval town on top of a hill in the Umbria Region, Igor told us. We drove onto the mainland. As far as we could see were farm fields with various crops, often with the rows of poplar trees protecting them. Canals through them are used for irrigation.
We're on a two lane road, behind several trucks. Our windshield is larger than a picture window of an old house. Here come 2-3 cars to pass us and as many trucks and cars as they can while trying to avoid a head-on. Unbelievably, they all make it.
Drove across another lagoon that leads into Venice. Just saw a big marina. Then a large shipyard where ships from the Adriatic Sea dock. Eels, mussels, clams, and other fish are in this area. Large nets get lowered when fish are coming in.
Most people on the bus are using their electronics or sleeping. Tom and I always enjoy watching the scenery on every road between the major stops.
Several big rivers aid in irrigation. Sharecropping is still practiced here. Owner and someone who helps him share the crops. Several small wineries around here keep their wine after the owner and helpers make it.
Passed a castle from 1500. A family used this whole area for hunting and built several castles. They did a lot to help the nearby town while here.
Saw the Pomposa Abbey and bell tower from the 9th century.
The man who invented the musical scale-Guido-is from this area.
This is a long drive, so Igor gave us a lot of information.
Northern Italy has more industries and higher wages than the southern part. The Mafia started during the unification of Italy. Lords owned the land and paid mercenary soldiers to protect it. Mussolini was the State Prime Minister and the ruler. Senior citizens today say when he ruled, there was no graffitti, good jobs, and safe towns. Then he aligned with Hitler. Through the Iron Treaty, the two stated that neither country would declare war on the other. Allied troops freed the country. He was caught near Milan, shot, and hanged. Then the Cosa Nostra moved to North America-crime organization on the international level. Badly hurt Italy's economy.
The government is trying to increase commerce in southern Italy. Northerners say they pay more taxes, but it is because most there have higher wages-everyone pays 50% income tax.
Sicily and other places way south are considered like Greece-many monuments and temples still standing after 2000 years. That era inspired the Renaissance.
At one point the art was considered vulgar and genitals were cut off the statues, or covered with fig leaves. Paintings were altered, too.
This month there is a major scandal in the country. They found several politicians were getting paybacks from companies chosen to work on big projects.
Their government is a pyramid shape:
Parliament, Senate, President (who has no power), Regional (20 regions), provinces (106). There are mayors of the communes, like a county mayor.
There are hundreds of dialects in Italy. Many residents in northern Italy are so close to Switzerland and Germany that they speak German. Dante started Italian language. Now Latin is only the official language of the Vatican.
If a company and employee have an illegal agreement to avoid the employee paying 50% income tax, and the government finds out, the owner will be fined and required to sell the company. (Sounds like a plan for our country!)
If the government sees you driving a really expensive car, having a very expensive house, etc., and your job doesn't seem to warrant those expenses and purchases, they will investigate you-check credit card transactions, income sources, everything. They found a woman owned 126 apartments in central Rome, yet was receiving a $400 monthly stipend from the government.
The only way a lot of people can make it in their slow economy is because a lot of families live close, so they eat together, maybe live together, share expenses.
When Italy changed from liras to Euros, the price of everything seemed to go up. Few moms can afford to stay home. Kindergarten costs and most families have to teach their kids for that year. From 1st-5th grade, they learn so much. Then they have a written exam and oral exam, even on the foreign language they were required to take. Then 3 years of middle school. Skills, attitude, etc. determine which kind of school the student will attend next. Igor said he knew when he was 14 that he wanted to be a tour guide and teach people about places and things. He speaks several languages and went to tourism school for 5 years. His teachers at that young age suggested he be a language teacher or tourism director (which he is). He worked in the winter and took some summer trips, learning more language and practicing it. The tourism school curriculum included the various countrys' customs, laws, dietary differences, besides learning about the history, geography, monuments, etc., of each.
Kids sit in the same desk all during high school. If they bring phones to school, don't abide by the dress code, don't have a good attitude, etc., they won't be promoted.
Car driver's licenses are available at 18, but some scooters can be driven by 14 year olds and cycles by 16 year olds. He said it is believed that is why there are such reckless scooter and cycle drivers all over the country.
The bureaucracy makes starting a business very difficult. People know about the American dream where someone can start a business in their garage and be rich soon. Here, you could start in a garage and years later you'd still be in the garage. The laws, etc., are suffocating, and it takes lots of money to grease the wheels.
We've been driving through beautiful rolling hills. Yes, I am paying attention to things besides my notebook! I make chicken scratches and write it out later.
Arrived in Assisi.
The new gate was built in the 1400's. Buildings are of pink limestone bricks-caused by the iron content. There are 1000 permanent residents. Rely mainly on tourism, though there are banks, a hospital, schools.
First, into St. Clare's Church. She was a rich girl who befriended St. Francis. She started living frugally and simply and started an order for women that was similar to the Franciscan Order. The church was started to remember her. She died in the 1250's at age 60. Huge rose window. Lion statue symbolizing Christianity and God.
In a chapel, on a cross from the 1100's, Jesus was painted as being alive. Heretics said he wasn't human and didn't die.
Beautiful arches, frescoes. Cleaning, humidity, oxygen, lights are affecting the frescoes. The sanctuary cross shows the crucified Jesus.
Our guide, Lara, said she's a typical Italian mom-had the audacity to name her two sons Leonardo and Michelangelo!
The houses across from the church were built in the 1500's and are still occupied.
The area is known for the very expensive black truffles, and olive oil, sagrentino wine. Textiles are the local crafts.
Government buildings here date from 1200-1300's.
Stopped to admire the outside of the Roman temple of Minerva-1st century B.C. The holes above the columns are from former bronze letters spelling out names of sponsors. Is now a Franciscan church. Was remodeled inside a few years ago-in the 1600's.
Stopped at a long trough on the side of a building. She had shown us the community laundry area a few blocks back. A sign above this trough says women may not do their laundry in it. She said last week a man asked if men were allowed to do their laundry there. She said she thought she must be having a vision-to think an Italian man would do anything like that. But, she said, with most women working, man are starting to help around the house.
Note: In every area we had a local guide. The reason Igor couldn't guide us in the towns, etc., is because the local and national guides belong to separate unions.
Learning about St. Francis of Assisi:
His father was very wealthy. Francis was in a war in the Army, then spent years alone. Then he wanted to spend his time with the poor, lepers, etc. His father told him to leave town. Every day he behaved like Jesus. Lived in a hut in a muddy area. He became ill at age 44 and died in 1226. The Pope canonized him in 1228.
The Basilica of St. Francis is two churches-one on top of the other. No pictures are allowed taken inside. All the frescoes are intact except for two sections that came crashing down during an earthquake a few years ago. There was a bad earthquake in 1997-the day after a mild one. Two friars and two workers were inspecting the damage from the first one when the second one hit. Two spots of the roof fell, killing all 4.
The frescoes were totally reconstructed with the original pieces. There are 28 frescoes of St. Francis' life. .
The second church is a 1253 Gothic Style. The stained glass windows were painted in the 1300's.
St. Francis' remains had been under the altar upstairs, but were moved downstairs in 1930.
As I was walking to the hotel I felt like my shoes were getting tighter. By the time we got to the room, the outer ankles were the size of baseballs. Iced before dinner, twice after, and slept with feet elevated. So humid, so much walking, 870 stairs yesterday, and several hours on the bus today took its toll.
We sat with an Australian couple from our group at dinner. Her son has been deployed to Afghanistan 5 times and would be going again, but he has decided to get out of the military. He is single, but agreed with her that it is more than a mom should have to endure (or him).
366 stairs
Friday, June 20, 2014
Friday the 13th and a full moon. The day in Venice
6/13: 90's, but only 42% humidity, for a change!!!
We walked to the water taxi to ride to the area of Venice that we would tour on foot.
On the boat, Igor pointed out Elton John's home on the canal. A yacht owned by a lady in the crystal business always seems to be parked here, he said, as we went by it. Cost $360 million and has been for sale for awhile. Geez, at the bargain price she probably has on it!
Walked across a couple of small bridges-up a bunch of steps and then down a bunch of steps. Here we go with starting the count for the day!
The first stop was the Doges Palace. The Doges was like the head of state in Venice. One section of the palace was built in 1300, the other section in the 1400s. The palace has been added onto many times. It served as a justice center, the Doges' residence, and the city prison, all at the same time.
Next, we viewed (later walked over) the Bridge of Sighs. It was named for the feelings of the prisoners. On to the newer prison (still hundreds of years old). The cells still have grafitti on the walls.
Walked up many stairs to the magnificent rooms with the ceilings and walls covered with paintings of people, Christ, Mary, and St. Mark. There was usually a lion shown with St. Mark. It became his symbol and, later, the symbol of Italy.
Only 3 days ago the rules were changed, allowing "no flash" pictures to be taken in here! We were all glad. Lots of "photographers" in our group. Several took many hundreds more than Tom's hundreds.
We passed the stairway that the Doges used in the palace-it was made from gold.
On to St. Mark's Square and Church. Once again we had been one of the first groups to arrive. Now the square is full of people. Two soldiers are walking around with a policeman. Almost hidden behind the people in the line to enter was a woman beggar. I saw one of the soldiers nod his head to the policeman, who told her to leave the area.
Inside this beautiful church, our guide said notice the sign which says no pictures are allowed inside. So we all abided by the rule. Of course many others didn't, including a group of nuns! Digital cameras don't damage paintings, so it is aggravating. We can't remember not being able to take pictures in any of the many churches we visited in Europe last year, but it happened most of the time here in Italy.
The beautiful, original mosaic floor is still in good shape.
The Murano Glass Factory
A glassblower demonstrated placing a bulb of glass on a pole and inserting the pole into a 1000 degree oven. Very soon he removed it and starting forming it into a medium sized vase. It probably took him less than 4 minutes, using tongs, blowing into the pipe, etc. The glass was 800 degrees while he was working on it. The narrator put a piece of paper next to it, immediately starting a fire. Then he made a small cat figurine. They were both placed in an oven to temper for 24 hours. If they didn't do this step, they would break when they cooled and the air hit them.
In a showroom a man dropped an expensive piece onto a piece of glass to show that their glass doesn't break easily, if at all. The workers spend 10-15 years, maybe a lifetime, to become what they call master glass makers.
Walked through the showrooms with beautiful clear chandeliers, other smaller ones with colored glass-one was $3200. Animals, plates, goblets, dish sets, Every color imaginable. I bought a small pair of their glass earrings.
We passed a Clark's and Disney stores. By this time we had all walked about 450 stairs. No one else counts, so they were amazed, though we knew we had gone up and down a lot of them.
Some people in our group went to a nearby area. We had decided to just browse around the city. We took 2-3 hours to walk back to the hotel. Bought a cute, glass wine stopper in a store and a fan, which I used right then, with pictures of Venice on it. Then to a produce stand for some fresh raspberries. We had a good pizza and some beer from a brewery that has been in business in Italy since 1854.
Very crowded sidewalks. It seems like Venice is one huge shopping area. There are hundreds of small stores and boutiques. Then vendors have tents many places. Then the illegal sellers (no license) have the same stuff displayed on a rug or blanket on a sidewalk or street that we have seen in every city-knock off purses, toys, belts, hats, paintings. As soon as someone sees a policeman, they quickly gather everything up and run off.
Italy is famous for lace and there were very beautiful items in lace stores.
Saw a man walking with a t-shirt of a parrot in a bar. It said "Prepping for the bar exam."
We saw many beggars again today. Many appear to be the Italian gypsies. We are constantly reminded to be cautious of them. If they see where you pulled money from, they or someone nearby knows where to pick your pocket. They almost lay down on the sidewalks, arms outstretched, with a cup in front of them. And they always have such heavy clothes on. They often are mumbling, or have their hands folded, as in prayer.
Venice's Mardi Gras lasts months. We are so surprised at the number of stores that sell nothing but masks. Some are so beautiful. They are made from paper, fabric, glass, feathers, with many being very elaborate. We never went inside to see prices.
Tom had a screw loose. We all knew that, right? Actually, it was on his glasses' ear piece and no one in our group or at the hotel had anything small enough to fix it. He used dental floss that morning to hold it together. It worked! We found an optical shop and the man fixed it in a minute and wouldn't let us pay him.
870 steps today-an all time record for this and last year. Ugh.
We walked to the water taxi to ride to the area of Venice that we would tour on foot.
On the boat, Igor pointed out Elton John's home on the canal. A yacht owned by a lady in the crystal business always seems to be parked here, he said, as we went by it. Cost $360 million and has been for sale for awhile. Geez, at the bargain price she probably has on it!
Walked across a couple of small bridges-up a bunch of steps and then down a bunch of steps. Here we go with starting the count for the day!
The first stop was the Doges Palace. The Doges was like the head of state in Venice. One section of the palace was built in 1300, the other section in the 1400s. The palace has been added onto many times. It served as a justice center, the Doges' residence, and the city prison, all at the same time.
Next, we viewed (later walked over) the Bridge of Sighs. It was named for the feelings of the prisoners. On to the newer prison (still hundreds of years old). The cells still have grafitti on the walls.
Walked up many stairs to the magnificent rooms with the ceilings and walls covered with paintings of people, Christ, Mary, and St. Mark. There was usually a lion shown with St. Mark. It became his symbol and, later, the symbol of Italy.
Only 3 days ago the rules were changed, allowing "no flash" pictures to be taken in here! We were all glad. Lots of "photographers" in our group. Several took many hundreds more than Tom's hundreds.
We passed the stairway that the Doges used in the palace-it was made from gold.
On to St. Mark's Square and Church. Once again we had been one of the first groups to arrive. Now the square is full of people. Two soldiers are walking around with a policeman. Almost hidden behind the people in the line to enter was a woman beggar. I saw one of the soldiers nod his head to the policeman, who told her to leave the area.
Inside this beautiful church, our guide said notice the sign which says no pictures are allowed inside. So we all abided by the rule. Of course many others didn't, including a group of nuns! Digital cameras don't damage paintings, so it is aggravating. We can't remember not being able to take pictures in any of the many churches we visited in Europe last year, but it happened most of the time here in Italy.
The beautiful, original mosaic floor is still in good shape.
The Murano Glass Factory
A glassblower demonstrated placing a bulb of glass on a pole and inserting the pole into a 1000 degree oven. Very soon he removed it and starting forming it into a medium sized vase. It probably took him less than 4 minutes, using tongs, blowing into the pipe, etc. The glass was 800 degrees while he was working on it. The narrator put a piece of paper next to it, immediately starting a fire. Then he made a small cat figurine. They were both placed in an oven to temper for 24 hours. If they didn't do this step, they would break when they cooled and the air hit them.
In a showroom a man dropped an expensive piece onto a piece of glass to show that their glass doesn't break easily, if at all. The workers spend 10-15 years, maybe a lifetime, to become what they call master glass makers.
Walked through the showrooms with beautiful clear chandeliers, other smaller ones with colored glass-one was $3200. Animals, plates, goblets, dish sets, Every color imaginable. I bought a small pair of their glass earrings.
We passed a Clark's and Disney stores. By this time we had all walked about 450 stairs. No one else counts, so they were amazed, though we knew we had gone up and down a lot of them.
Some people in our group went to a nearby area. We had decided to just browse around the city. We took 2-3 hours to walk back to the hotel. Bought a cute, glass wine stopper in a store and a fan, which I used right then, with pictures of Venice on it. Then to a produce stand for some fresh raspberries. We had a good pizza and some beer from a brewery that has been in business in Italy since 1854.
Very crowded sidewalks. It seems like Venice is one huge shopping area. There are hundreds of small stores and boutiques. Then vendors have tents many places. Then the illegal sellers (no license) have the same stuff displayed on a rug or blanket on a sidewalk or street that we have seen in every city-knock off purses, toys, belts, hats, paintings. As soon as someone sees a policeman, they quickly gather everything up and run off.
Italy is famous for lace and there were very beautiful items in lace stores.
Saw a man walking with a t-shirt of a parrot in a bar. It said "Prepping for the bar exam."
We saw many beggars again today. Many appear to be the Italian gypsies. We are constantly reminded to be cautious of them. If they see where you pulled money from, they or someone nearby knows where to pick your pocket. They almost lay down on the sidewalks, arms outstretched, with a cup in front of them. And they always have such heavy clothes on. They often are mumbling, or have their hands folded, as in prayer.
Venice's Mardi Gras lasts months. We are so surprised at the number of stores that sell nothing but masks. Some are so beautiful. They are made from paper, fabric, glass, feathers, with many being very elaborate. We never went inside to see prices.
Tom had a screw loose. We all knew that, right? Actually, it was on his glasses' ear piece and no one in our group or at the hotel had anything small enough to fix it. He used dental floss that morning to hold it together. It worked! We found an optical shop and the man fixed it in a minute and wouldn't let us pay him.
870 steps today-an all time record for this and last year. Ugh.
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