Isle of Capri to Sorrento, to Positano on the Amalfi Coast, back to Rome.
6:45 At breakfast in the pretty dining room in our LaPalma Hotel. The ceiling has sheer white fabric from all corners to the center. There is a tall "tree" made of flower pots.
Some in our group stayed up until 2 a.m. watching the World Cup. Are they ever dragging this morning! Had to have suitcases in the hall at 6:15, I think. Here is a shot of Tom standing next to a couple of the miniature vans they use to haul stuff from the ferries to the shops and hotels.
Walked several blocks to the funicular to ride down to the port to board the ferry to Sorrento (we had come here from Naples.) This ride wasn't as choppy as that had been and our island boat tour. But it still wasn't smooth on the 35 minute ride.
Walked off the ferry with 2 women pulling zippered bags. I asked them if they were going shopping and they said yes, everything is so much cheaper than on Capri. I asked what they would probably buy and they said "everything." Later we saw a lot of nice produce stands, so am sure they probably have their favorite one.
Igor pointed out the Excelsior Vittoria Hotel on the hill above the port-150'. It is the most expensive hotel in Italy. (yellowish building)
Sorrento has 16,000 residents. It is a very popular place for tourists, too, because of its easy access to several other places.
We boarded 2 mini buses to reach our tour starting place. Ours was short a seat for Igor. He said "I know all these places by heart, so I could even lay on the floor." But he stood.
When he talked to this driver it was mainly in Neapolitan-the local dialect-with occasional Italian thrown in. Many of the drivers in these places know him from prior trips. (Many of the places we visited do not allow the full-sized buses in the towns. So our driver, Piero, would have to take it to a bus lot and wait for us-sometimes for two days. One time I asked him if he missed us, and he said "Yes, but I cleaned the bus very much - it is like new for all of you.") The first day Igor told us Piero treated the bus as if it was his own and no one was to bring pizza, chocolate, or gelato aboard!
35,000 years ago a volcano erupted in this area.
There is a cool breeze where we're standing in an alleyway. Igor said for many years there were pasta and wool factories that had started in the 1600's. It was so humid up above where they were, that the pollution was terrible and they closed them. Later this area we're in was built to come down to the harbor.
We saw tall Mediterranean palms and, shortly, we walked into the courtyard of St. Francis Church and the chiastro (garden area) built in the 1400's. Concerts are held here now.
Down the block is a banana tree-not typical in Italy. Gardenia bushes. We looked down to the sea and across to Naples and Mt. Vesuvius and the port of Sorrento.
Surrentum was the name of a siren (mermaid-woman legend), who lived in the bay.
This area is famous for cotton and linen.
Next we walked to an ancient area where we saw the Cathedral of Sorrento with its red bell tower from the 11th c. The church was built on top of a church that had been dedicated to Minerva.
The pillars in the front are from the original Roman temple.
Walked next to medieval buildings on narrow north-south and east-west streets. Igor told us the city was laid out that way so the residents could see clear to the ends of the streets to see if invaders were coming.
There was a small raised area with metal walls and a pretty fresco. He said people play cards here in the evenings.
The cathedral was remodeled with new Baroque decorations in 1920's.
We visited an inlaid wood factory that had beautiful items. One of the sons (40's, probably) explained that the business had been run by his family since 1852 and explained that they select a drawing and place it on top of several thin layers of wood veneers. Then they use a scroll saw that is about 5' x 12' so it flips around the wood.
For someone to become one of these artists, he first has to be gifted, then go through a 5 year training period. They apply 6 coats of polyurethane on matte or other finish. He put a lighter against a finished piece and it didn't burn. He said these pieces are to be used-with food, drinks, etc., if they are lazy Susans, coasters, etc.
He showed us a table his dad invented in the 1950's that is now world famous-with several game boards and a whole chess set stored in it.
We bought a coaster depicting Sorrento. This man has a place in Miami-said Italians love Miami. He said his family works very hard during the tourist season and then goes to America.
It was interesting to talk to two people in our group about things they learned in this shop today. One man said he knew his mom had bought a wood inlaid table in Italy, but had no idea what it is worth-they are selling things that were hers. He saw one similar to hers and talked to someone in this family who said he could probably appraise it if he receives a picture. So our new friend said that table is going to his home, not anyone else's. A lady said she was offered a music box from someone in her husband's family, but passed it up. Saw a similar one and now wishes she had kept it-they were very expensive. We talked about how we all need to have lists, or label items that are unusual, expensive, etc., because family members probably won't know their sentimental or cash value after we're gone.
We've seen 4 bikes this morning-the first ones I've seen in any of these towns. Sure not like in all the European cities we visited last summer, where there were thousands. As we walked towards our tour bus there was a neat gully full of vegetation. Igor said the brick structure in it was one of the old mills for a pasta factory.
I noticed a beautiful purple jacaranda tree in the park as we drove by. Real estate offices are called immobiliers here in Italy, as in other countries over here.
We rode down narrow, busy streets on the coast, full of shops. One is called the Lavenderia. Small trucks parked along the road, from which people are selling their produce. Igor tells us it is organic and many of the locals have started buying cheaper produce from neighboring countries, etc., so the farmers sell to all the tourists who travel this road. The stuff looks good from the bus!
We saw a Coke delivery truck that was smaller than a Tahoe. Pedestrians walking along the side of the streets that are already narrow, with two vehicles side by side. No thanks. Motorcycles rushing between vehicles.
It's very overcast, but not raining. Of course all the photographers would prefer a sunny day. We're high above the ocean now.
All kinds of cars are parked along the road, with part of their vehicle sticking out. The first two must have been the occupants of houses that were up one side and down the other side of the hillsides and evidently don't have driveways.
Our two mini buses stop on the road, taking up most of the right lane. Very common and accepted. Cars behind us slowed down, and went around the buses when it was safe. I could see major road rage in America if that happened. We've pulled over in one of two places where we'll see a beautiful view. Five boats are leaving pretty wakes below.
Next stop is so we can see the city of Positano from above. Wow! Pretty houses and other buildings built all up the hillside. Most are white, but a few are painted pastel colors. Several have beautiful bougainvillea plants growing on them.
Igor goes between both buses, counting to be sure all 44 people are on board. I told him it'd be easier on our large bus if he just looked for an empty seat, since we have a full vehicle. He laughed and then told all of us that on one of the first tours he conducted 19 years ago, the bus was pulling out of the parking area and a woman started pounding on the outside and yelling to let her in. He said every time since then he actually counts the people. One couple has dubbed him Count Igor.
We have to stop at the top of the hill above town to wait for another mini bus that is coming up the narrow road.
Guide shows us a parking lot where the cars are literally about 6" apart. No way could a driver get out of his side. But how could he get out the right side if someone is parked there? Parking is so expensive, because of the shortage of spaces.
Positano is known for fashion and sandals, which can be made for you in 20 minutes. The sole is ready and a buyer chooses the straps they want.
Walked down, down stairs and streets to the beach. Shared a sandwich.
Two little girls had a blanket with plastic bracelets for sale-like the ones the young American girls are making. Bought 2 for our great nieces who like to make them.
Really looks like rain and we have to walk back up to the bus. But, it didn't start before we left.
Back on the bus, with Igor giving us more information. The Amalfis were a people who had a maritime kingdom like the people of Genoa, Pisa, and Venice. They sailed to other lands from here.
In the 1960's Sophia Loren was made an honorary citizen of Positano. Soon other move stars began travelling there, as did the Kennedys. Soon the area took off as a tourist area. Fishing is a minor part of the economy now.
John Steinbeck wrote Positano, about the Amalfi Coast.
A lot of produce and hazelnuts grow here. The Latari Mountains are on our right-sheer rock cliffs. There is a park on the top.
He pointed out the Galli Island, which means rooster. In Greek mythology Sirens lived on it - half fish, half bird.
Olive trees are taller here, so farmers don't pick them, but place nets underneath. Then they sort the good from the bad. Some locals say they aren't as good. Also fig trees here.
Off the mini bus and back on our large one, on which Piero will drive us to Rome.
We think we have reckless motorcycle drivers at home. They're insane here. So many take terrible chances. (Later that night we saw a fallen one on a Rome street). We just saw one squeeze between our large bus and an oncoming bus on a two lane road.
Driving past Naples now. There are many tall apartment buildings of various styles. Lots of laundry hanging off racks on the upper decks.
Back in Rome
Four million population. Igor said the Ring Road was built "recently" - right after WWII. Their concept of old and new is much different than ours! It connects all areas of the city. Before it was built, only farmers lived in the outlying areas. But the road enabled people to get places faster and the areas outside the ring expanded quickly.
Four of our group had a problem in a restaurant in Positano, so we were 20 minutes late leaving there. Then we drove through a construction zone, so we will only have a half hour to get our room keys, take our luggage, or wait for the porters to bring it, and change or whatever before we leave for the dinner show. Many of us spent a long time waiting our turn for the small elevators.
We're staying in the Holiday Inn tonite-half hour from the airport. We're going to an opera show in the Tanagra restaurant. That's Greek for pottery and the building used to be a pottery factory.
We passed a stadium and spas that Mussolini had built. Above the River Tiber is a beautiful villa owned by Pope Paul III.
I said we should thank the three young kids who have been so well-behaved on our trip: Isabelle, 10; and brothers, Noah, 8 and Nathan, 12. Everyone agreed and also that we had enjoyed the college kids: Dustin and Tiffany, Anthony, and Matt and Lauren, along with the other young people.
Opera began in Italy. The singers performed between courses. This was another earlier meal, for the 185 or so tourists in the restaurant. They try to cater to the Americans' earlier schedule. And we all leave tomorrow. We can't imagine eating this much food this late every night. I'll share what the meal was:
1. Very thinly sliced beef with small pieces of lettuce on top
2. Creamy rice with mushrooms
3. Penne in red sauce with a few pieces of asparagus
4. Veal slices in gravy, broasted potatoes, cooked spinach or other vegetable
5. Multi-layer cake with sparkling wine
6. Wine during the meal
One singer walked around the room and touched every man there. Kissed a cheek, rubbed a head or face. Sat on our Keith's lap. Puckered Tom's lips, but didn't kiss them.
Barber of Seveille. Guy picked a man from the audience and brought him onstage. Put shaving cream all over his face and bald head. Then put a towel over his face long enough to pull out a gigantic knife-cardboard or plastic, probably. Then they pulled a couple of people up front to dance, including Courtney from our group. Then everyone waved their hands, holding their napkins, and sang Arrevadecci, Roma.
Back on the bus Igor said he'd heard there are some singers in the group. "Tom Campbell, lead us off." He sang "I Just Don't Look Good Naked Anymore" and people roared so he paused between each phrase. Then he sang the nursing home song he likes and they laughed at that too. Last line: "I spent the night in the chair, there was more of her there, side by side."
Christy sang a Disney mermaid song and we all sang Amazing Grace with her. Tim and his wife sang a Mexican duet. The Italian guide sang "Crazy". That was a surprise.
We all asked the driver, Piero, to sing, but he refused. So he had to pay by listening to us sing "The wheels on the bus" to him! And then Arrevadecci, Roma again.
Today someone of our group asked Igor if he'd ever had a bad group to lead and he said "Yes, this one" and laughed. Now he sincerely thanked us for a great 11 days, being unified from starting as a group of strangers, honoring the customs and culture of Italy, and being so much fun.
We all said our goodbyes and headed to bed at 10:40. 339 stairs.
No comments:
Post a Comment